Thursday 8 December 2011

The herbal harmony-break in Beijing

Traditional Chinese herbal medicine products must be weighed carefully. Photo: Ecopix
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Doctor Wang feels the pulse. Index, middle and ring fingers to the right, then to the left wrist. The doctor seeks the Yin and Yang - the polar forces of nature to Daoist understanding of the body. She gropes for the balance of those earthen-and female-male fiery forces, according to which works of Chinese medicine for thousands of years. Dr. Wang will not heal with their diagnosis, but also to prevent. "It's all about harmony," says the Mittfünfzigerin in perfect German. So is all: to harmony. In art and architecture, cuisine and medicine. Of harmony tells the cook, the Teezeremonienmeister, the gardener, the pharmacist. Harmony break the guide says, when he announces the next pee stop.

Doctor Wang shows a traditional pharmacy closet. In the drawers of different herbs in traditional Chinese medicine will be kept. She asks about physical complaints, nods thoughtfully, if consistent with their pulse diagnosis - and recalls, prescription pad and credit card machine on hand at the 65 herbal medicines, which were developed in the Beijing Academy of Chinese Medical Sciences, and "since 2001 for export to the U.S. is "approved. Qi Zhen Jiao Nang, a tonic to strengthen the immune system. Ze Shan He, herbal capsules for treating obesity. Chang Xiang Yi for insomnia. Wen Zhi Zhuang for more vitality. "Of course it's not cheap." 80 € for 60 capsules, one month's supply. Clear that not everyone finds the way to the Institute at the north gate of the Jingshuan Park. "For us to come and higher officials, especially foreigners," says Mrs. Dr. Wang. Harmony and Profit complement each other beautifully.

Many Tibetans and Nepalese are working illegally, but the authorities look the other way

Mr. Li has nothing to do with harmony. Here it thousands of smiling Buddha sculptures of all sizes. But they are the only ones with a relaxed face. Changes at the gates in the 14-million-people metropolis of Chengdu, a good 2,000 miles from Beijing, toiling young men and very young women in three shifts. Yin and Yang have not lost anything. The workers produce Buddha statues, soldering, hammering and shaping. Man-high gold-plated pieces are polished by hand for days until they shine.Are there some herbal remedies for Biting ammonia smell in the nose. Toxic puddles shine in shades of blue. The clouds hang low. "When the sun shines in Chengdu, the dogs bark," says Mr. Li and laughs. In the factory yard is the S-class of casual bosses. Export-millionaires.

In the fifth floor of a dingy outbuilding Nepalese kneel on thick mats. They paint and embroider traditional scroll paintings with religious themes - Buddhas, Bodhisattvas, lamas. Four months it takes to be a Thangka is finished according to strict iconographic rules. "The Nepalese people are working illegally," Mr. Li says, and laughs again, "but can only Nepalese and Tibetan thangkas, press the authorities ever since a blind eye." Mr. Li will know how to nachhilft. Zhang shows yellowed black and white photographs. Their four-generation family has been living for decades in the Beijing Hutong Lingdang, a maze of gray streets in the shadow of the Gu Lou, the great drum tower. In Siheyuan, the shady courtyard, sweeping along great grandfather Zhang autumn herbal remedies and foliage. The photos show Ms. Zhang as a small child and young woman during Mao's Cultural Revolution in the 1970s, when the house was overcrowded with more than 50 people. Today the family is back in themselves. Ms. Zhang is happy about it. For many hutong have been demolished in the boom years. On the outskirts of skyscrapers from the ground. On the way from the airport into the city one sees some of those 4500 high-rise buildings that have been raised in three years for around two million inhabitants.

Young Chinese women: crying in the car better than laugh on a bicycle

"There are nine million bicycles in Beijing". Katie Melua's hit from 2005 is an oldie. In Beijing, they come no more into the bike, but on the accelerator. You drive BMW, Mercedes, VW. Long version. Seven million vehicles are now traveling in the 24-million Mega City, approved five million of them private. Every day, newly registered cars in China's capital in 2000. Buying a second car is forbidden. Developments since the 2008 Olympics is breathtaking. More than 200,000 taxi (the fare is subsidized) wait despite the expansion of the 220-kilometer subway system to customers. "Anyone who comes back after three herbal remedies in years in his home town, they often do not recognize again," says Ms. Zhang. In her well-maintained property Hutong there is still no toilet, which is located 50 meters further down the narrow street and the public of course. Not infrequently, neighbors come in slippers or pajamas here. "Then can I talk with them a bit," says Ms. Zhang. In high-rise there was so not what. And certainly not the harmony of Siheyuan.

Changed the course of the day. "Many young people know nothing of the ancient tea ceremony, which is no longer taught in schools," laments Mr. Chen, "who know only Coca-Cola." Even with the love of the clocks ticked differently now. "Better to cry in a BMW than laugh on a bicycle," the loud slogan of young married women. Passbook, condo, car keys - the new marital harmony.

Ms. Liu meets her neighbors in the morning in the park at the old city wall to qigong. In many places, and they bend and stretch to speaker commands in concentrated, harmonious movements to strengthen mind and body, recharge your batteries. "The more the Mao generation," says Ms Liu. Young Chinese are looking at the early meditation in vain.

Doctor Wang feels the pulse. China's heart is racing. To burst soon.

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